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What type of paint to use for a library?
We bought a nice unfinished alder library are painting in white to match a desk that we just bought. We were using a latex paint that was Easy Living Color attached and recommended to us by someone at Osh. On another issue, someone suggested that latex paint is not a good choice for furniture and that we should have gone with an oil-based paint. Latex can do a decent job? Is it time to oil painting? Assuming we pass a painting in oil, do we have to sand off every bit of latex paint and primer? Or are we just a layer of paint oil based paint on top of the existing layer of latex? Is there a book I can buy that will explain things like that to me?
First, you can use the base oil in latex ... you CAN NOT use latex over oil base ... it does not stick. The reason it does not stick, it is because of the "oil-based'.... which is the same reason some people say its better to use one based paint Oil on wood. The oil paint adheres to the wood better than latex. Different types of paint, and their uses: water-based - often called water colors .. used in the art for their ability to leave pigment in a style "washed." In latex - latex is a type of vinyl is easily cleaned with soap and water, and is most often found in the apartment with wall paintings, semi-gloss for interior. Acrylic base - Acrylic is a "harder" the type of plastic .... where the latex is more flexible. Acrylic paints are also useful in the art and are increasingly popular in outdoor situations, as they will dry hard. Acrylic paints also easily cleaned with soap and water. Oil-based - oil-based paints used to be the "standard" by which all other paints were Measured ... it is no longer the case. Oil-based paints can reach a very high gloss, and are a little harder when dry than latex .... they harden more slowly, but left behind a thick layer of pigment ... making them ideal for painting dark colors, blotchy areas, and home use out. You need to paint thinners or solvents to clean the place. They are also very popular for illustrations, and paintings using this type of paint are commonly called "oil". Epoxy-based - These are perhaps the most difficult to put on all paintings ... these you will find the most commonly used in outdoor applications, which should last a long time, or be subjected to extremely harsh conditions. Now there are other types of paints and ... developed for specific purposes ... such as automotive paints, which are weather resistant and sun, plastic paints, specially designed to adhere to plastic (like plastic furniture outdoors, mailboxes, etc.) and industry the furniture itself uses some that are "acid based" ... which means they need a catalyst to make them 'set' properly. If you had access to equipment, I advise you to use a catalyst (acid)-based paint, but it is not something that is sold "on the counter." The advantage of this type of paint is that you can, by changing the mix of chemicals to the paint be extremely difficult, fast or slow drying, etc ... It is one of the most durable and most durable paints available. Now in your application special .... youve got a few shelves of books ... you've already applied the primer and paint, it looks like. Libraries are not typically going to get a lot of "wear" on them, as some other types of furniture ... for example, your office, you are equal to color, on the shelves. My suggestion - go ahead and finish as you started. The latex paint must adhere to your bait, and be less likely to "Flakes" or "skins" as was suggested here. Did you apply the latex paint directly to the wood .... I would say the sand off. But since you override it ... leave. Latex paint is not particularly "hard" when it dries. I do not know what "brilliant" or sheen you're looking for ... if a high gloss, as a lacquer, or flat (no shine at all). However, you can ... apply a protective "Top coat" ... either in a "satin", "semi-" or "high gloss". Satin would be less shine to it ... a brilliant brightness the most to her. Anyone who paint, must have a board sample of what these look like glosses. Now for the topcoat - I recommend a polyurethane based topcoat. You can get the desired brightness in the .. . And it will dry on a hard surface, protecting the latex paint. You can get this type of top coat in a 'Navy' style too ... that is, it is designed to withstand being outside in the sun, and will not "yellow" to sun exposure. Urethane 'Marine' is more difficult, and it is more commonly known for use on boats (and therefore Navy nickname «')... it is also very popular on the picnic tables and benches outside! You can decide Tho, a topcoat that is not particularly necessary ... much will depend on just how much of the "wear" you expect to have on the shelves. If you wait not many scratches ... do not worry about it. Something else to think too .... the "old" look, where the paint is deliberately scratched to reveal other colors underneath, is very popular in some areas .... you may just want to stick with the latex for now, and scrapes up a little later, and then apply a finish coat, hehehe. Now, if you decide to go ahead and move to the oil-based paint (I can not believe it's necessary) .. you NOT sand off all of your latex paint and primer. All you have to do is scuff it up with your sander so that the oil paint adheres to improve it. Remember - oil paintings more time to "dry" ... typically, Minimum 24 hours .. so do not be anxious to move ... o.. and be sure to paint in a well ventilated area. Here are some tips for painting ... Regardless of the method you use: Wood - you want at least a good coat of primer, maybe two layers, or jacket of "sanding sealer" and then a coat of primer. The sanding sealer has a purpose ... it locks "the wood fibers in place. When sanding a piece of wood ... it raises "the wood fibers remaining. Using sandpaper successively higher, you can reduce the size of these fibers arise. Sanding sealer helps lock the fibers arising up .. and then a light sanding only, these fibers will break down existing raised, without giving further increase ... condition not to sand through the sealer. This product is especially useful when you want to get a very smooth finish. Between each coat of sealer, primer or paint, you want to "scuff" coat dry a bit. A piece of steel wool is ideal for this. The idea is not to sand through the primer or paint ... just to "life lasts up" a bit ... giving the next layer of "grooves" in the previous layer, as it can 'grip'. This makes each successive layer clinging to the previous layer, much more successful. It also helps to remove any works or the drops, which were left in the previous layer, and helps to achieve a comprehensive and smoother finish, with the last coat of paint or coating. You've already got latex paint, you've already started working with her ... go ahead and finish your project. Youve primer ... this is well. You are using a product made from Alder ... The wood is fairly stable ... we have to paint ... and you will not have much trouble with sap ... Unlike pine, for example. You could, in a couple of years, see a few flakes of paint off .... no big deal .... At that time, then you can paint the shelves with an oil-based paint, if you wish .... who knows in a few years ... you can change the color of anyway. Heheheh. Enjoy!
Moving Bookcase, Special Book, Secret Room