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i have a 75lb drawback PSE brand compound bow with a 31" drawback length. what size carbon arrow should i use?
i use 31" arrows. i dont get the specifics of grain size or the 300/400/500 size specifications. if someone thats knowledgeable about archery specs could give me a quick rundown on how you go about determining the correct size/grain size(not sure if theres a difference), id be grateful.
previous arrows ive used sometimes sway back and forth a whole lot on their path to the target, even veering off course at times. im guessing i need a stiffer spine to compensate for the 75lb drawback weight so they dont bend so much after i let fly them. i tried using shorter 30" arrows to make up for the bending but they were much more inaccurate than the 31" arrows.
and what exactly do the 300/400/500 sizes and grain sizes refer to and how are they different from each other, if they, in fact, are?
The 300/400/500 size is called spine size, this is a measure of how stiff the shafts are. To be more specific this size is the static spine, meaning it's the true measure of the stiffness of the spine. When you actually shoot the arrow, how the arrow behave upon release is the dynamic spine. Let's take an arrow of 300 size, this means if you put a 2 lbs weight and hang it in the middle of a 300 size shaft 29" long, you would get exactly 0.3" of bend. Now take that 300 spine shaft, add a 100 grain point to it and shoot it from a bow, the actual bend of the arrow, if you can measure it, might not be 0.3". That actual bend of the arrow upon release is the dynamic spine. Now how does that apply to you, see there's no way to measure dynamic spine, dynamic spine though is what determines whether an arrow will fly well or not, static spine is just a starting point. So, we get into the specifics of arrow tuning.
Now, from my experience, I shoot a 30" arrow at 44lbs with 110 grain points. The grain size can refer to the weight of the point or the weight of the shaft, though we usually talk in grains per inch when talking about shaft weights. At my measurements, I shoot a 580 shaft size. A friend of mine shoots a 30" arrow with 110 grain points with a 52lbs bow, he's shooting 380 size shafts. So, at 75lbs, you better be shooting the stiffest shaft you can find if you want the arrow to be 31", smaller number means stiffer arrow, so out of those 3 numbers, 300/400/500, 300 is the stiffest.
Tuning can be tricky with that, since you then also need light points to go with the shaft. Start at 85 grain points and see if they fly well. The first thing I do when tuning a bow, is to check the bow, make sure the center shot is set properly, the peep is the right height, nocking point square, then shoot an arrow from 10 yards away with no feathers. Have someone with good eyes watch how the arrow flies. Whether the tail end kicks left right up or down. If you're shooting right handed and the arrow kicks tail end right, mean the arrow is stiff, tail end left means the arrow is weak. Tail end goes up means the nocking point is too high, tail end down means nocking point too low. The first thing to take care of is the up and down movement, ignore left and right until you get the arrow to go strictly in the horizontal direction. Once the arrow is whipping strictly horizontally, then start playing with the spine of the arrow.
If the arrow is weak, you can:
Cut the arrow shorter
Reduce point weight
Get heavier fletching
Add limb savers to your limbs
Add secondary nocking point to your string
Add silencer to your string
Reduce bow weight
If the arrow is stiff, you do the opposite of the above list, except you can't make shafts longer so when cutting shafts do so carefully.
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